Salaam, salaam !
Oftwel, hoi hoi !
We are now in Heaven, named Lahore in Pakistan.
Heaven because we escaped out of ' Hell ' , also
called pakistani police.
But lets start with the beginning.
This morning we had this luxuary buffet breakfast in
the most luxuary hotel in Lahore.
And it was really heaven ...
We ate and ate and ate, drank coffee and all these
cold fruit drinks.
I saw bread again, it was more than 3 months ago.
So we spend 2 hours here, eating as much as we could,
most of you know how much I can eat so when I say I
filled like 5 plates you aren't too surprised ?
It was so good ...
But I said I start at the beginning, right ?
That was 7 days ago, when we left Quetta.
We wanted to ride this nice small road, leading us via
Loralai through the mountains to Dhera Ghazi Khan.
Tescha heared from a french cyclist it wasn't
possible, why we didn't know ( then ).
So we left Quetta at 0530, as usual, riding most hours
in the cool, read 25 or 30 degrees, morning hours.
After 60 km we turned right. right into the mountains
again, great !
It's so much better than the desert which is a little
boring after a couple of hundred km's.
First night we slept under apple trees, how nice.
Second night when we reached Loralai we were spotted
by police and yes, escorted again.
We do not want escort we explained for the thousandst
time but without luck. They took us too the wrong
hotel of course, but we could camp in the garden, for
There was this nice pakistani family who gave us a
bottle of cold pepsi cola.
2 minutes late the bottle was empty ...
If I say that I am drinking 10 to 12 liters a day,
sometimes 1 1/2 liter of cold ' mountain dew ' ( sort
of 7 up ) within 5 minutes, can you believe ?
It is so hot here but we are doing so fine if I may
The heat isn't really bothering us, 40 degrees is
If it is 25 degrees on a ' cold ' morning we find it a
little chilly, our bodies adjusted to the
circumstances ? Must be huh !
But our minds not adjusted to police and their stupid,
insane thoughts about security and giving us police
escort, meaning NOT leaving us alone, meaning we
cannot camp ...
Meaning we cannot stay where we like...
So after 5 days we reached Dhera Ghazi Kan, from a
pass 80 km back to 5 km before town escorted by
police, two old man on a motor cycle ha ha.
But laughing was over when we looked after 95 km for a
hotel in D G Khan.
Spotted by police they wanted us to leave town ...
We knew forreigners were not allowed to stay but we
wanted to give it a try anyway.
But no, we had to leave.
We talked for like half an hour, standing in the sun,
it was so hot ...
But police offiver was a real nazi, very unpleasant
Tescha was not feeling well, feeling dizzy.
So I said, look man, my wife is not feeling well ( it
is much more easier pretending we are married when we
answer the 20 th same question every day ...) may we
please sit down in the shadow for a while and drink
something ? With the mercy of God we were allowed, how
But than we had to leave and the chain of lies began
Only 11 km to the district border, police told us.
I told Tescha, ' Yeah, if we drop dead there it's not
their problem ! '
How true this was ...
And how much lies we would hear the next 5 hours ...
It turned out to be 20 km ...
No resthouse there as promised ...
Not allowed to camp at petrol station ...
So we were fucked, really fucked.
We couldn't camp, we wouldn't take a ride in police
We could's cycle anymore to next big town, too far and
it was allready 1700 hours .
So after 2 hours of talking, cursing, listening to
bullshit how dangerous it was to camp ( we told them
we were camping for 3 months now, I told them I camped
on allmost every continent, without problems ) they
wouldn't leave ...
So we had to take this ride, to next hotel they
promised... only 4 km ...you feel it ?
They were so full of lies, we rode for many km's,
changing 5 times from police car to another police car
in neighboring district, no sir, this is really the
last police car ...
Yes sir, we are going to Jarfarrabad, only 20 km's
Yes sir, you can sleep at government building, 500
meters back ...
All lies ...
We rode for 4 hours, we were so tired form cycling,
changing police cars in the dark, trying not to forget
one of our 11 bags which lay everytime on the ground
in the dark, changing cars again. But most tired we
were from all these lies. No we did'n make friends.
Actually, realizing now what we called them at that
time, it's a wonder we were not thrown in jail...
But they were so unfair to us, we only told them the
truth, that they all were a bunch of fucking liers ...
So we ended up in Multan ( no sir, we are not going to
Multan ... )
It took us another hour to find hotel who would let us
stay, it's not good when you show up at reception with
a couple of police officers next to you ; ' no sir we
don't have room ' ( keybord was full of keys ... ' )
So after second hotel we said, ' look, it's better if
we check in alone '
Oke they said. Lie nr 238 that night ...
But finally we found hotel, in the 5 seconds without
police the receptionist said ' yeah, we have room '
So tired we fell asleep witin minutes ...
Next morning there was ....
POLICE again !
' Wait ' they said when we wanted to leave, ' .
off ' we thought and drove away.
But within a minute they were behind us, escorting us
Thoughts about how to loose them run through our
brains, best option was in mine to take a train to
Lahore and maybe jump of at next station. So after 60
km we bought a train ticket to Lahore, Police looking
over our shoulder and not leaving us untill we checked
our bicycles in at parcel department on train station.
Our plan to jump off at next station vaporised every
hour more and more ( we had to wait 3 hours before
train arrived ).
Lahore with a nice hotel, real supermarkets and all
the nice food sounded so good ....
And when we were on the train we didn't want too leave
it, in our minds also with the risk of having the same
trouble as last night ...
So now we are in Lahore !
Close to India
Close to say goodbye
( Tescha is going up north,
cycling the Karakoram Highway and then to Lhasa, I
want to stick to my plan to enter Tibet from Nepal,
also going to Lhasa )
It was good to cycle the most deserted, hot and windy
1000 km's not alone.
Having company again, someone to talk to if it was so
hot or hard or to cycle behind.
Maybe for another 30 km, when we cycle to the border
Watching the border ceremony, Tescha from pakistani
side, I from the Indian side.
Seperated by border, different roads to ride .
It shall be good again,
'... een mens is het gezondst en gelukkigst als hij onderweg is ' ( Bruce Chatwin )